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Ray Dunakin
Crew Chief
USA
827 Posts |
 Posted - 04/28/2012 : 11:28:46 PM
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The backdrop structure looks great!
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Visit www.raydunakin.com to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad! |
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sgtbob
Fireman
USA
1184 Posts |
Posted - 04/29/2012 : 08:06:09 AM
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Again, the walls are just loosely sitting in place. All the paneling is done, I just have a
few more doors to install. I still want to make and install the bed frame and wardrobe in the
master bedroom before I can paint them and glue them in place. Then I can start working on details.
I also received the scribed styrene sheet I ordered so I can think about making the two side walls.
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http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30102&whichpage=1
http://www.freewebs.com/santmod/ |
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dallas_m
Fireman
USA
3014 Posts |
Posted - 04/29/2012 : 5:33:46 PM
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| Sweet! The relief in the paneling and the textures on the floor will provide a terrific "first layer" of detail ... in what's likely to be another "treasure chest" of detail from SgtBob! :-) |
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Ray Dunakin
Crew Chief
USA
827 Posts |
Posted - 04/29/2012 : 11:37:29 PM
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| Will the interior walls be attached to the exterior walls? |
Visit www.raydunakin.com to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad! |
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sgtbob
Fireman
USA
1184 Posts |
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sgtbob
Fireman
USA
1184 Posts |
Posted - 05/01/2012 : 12:35:59 PM
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I got those interior walls painted and I'm installing them on the floor. Hope to get a few
photos later today.
I did get a chance to make some other decisions regarding the backdrop structure. I had a nice
prefinished shelf that I was going to use as the base but it is heavy as sin compared to the
light weight of the structure. Since this is to be quite portable so I can take it outside for
photography sessions, I decided the shelf it way too heavy. I have some nice 1/2 x 3/4 pine
strips and I think I will make a light frame and cover it with foamcore and thus make a
lightweight base. I will even make the ties, tie plates, spike heads, and the rails from styrene.
More later.
Bob |
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30102&whichpage=1
http://www.freewebs.com/santmod/ |
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sgtbob
Fireman
USA
1184 Posts |
Posted - 05/01/2012 : 2:12:54 PM
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Here's the private car as it now stands. I can go nuts detailing the interior or start on
the car sides. I think I will do both, back and forth, so I don't go stale on either project.
As an aside, I was not happy with any of the figures That I have on hand. They did not seem
to be "right" for travellers in a private car. Then I discovered that LGB has a set of 4
figues called "Orient Express", and while I will have to repaint them, they are about PERFECT.
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http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30102&whichpage=1
http://www.freewebs.com/santmod/ |
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milocomarty
Fireman
Netherlands
4927 Posts |
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dallas_m
Fireman
USA
3014 Posts |
Posted - 05/01/2012 : 5:14:48 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by sgtbob
Here's the private car as it now stands. I can go nuts detailing the interior or start on
the car sides. I think I will do both ...
Hooray! [:-party] Meanwhile, "ooooh" ... and ... "ahhhh" on the current progress. Starting to look quite luxurious in there.  |
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Ray Dunakin
Crew Chief
USA
827 Posts |
Posted - 05/02/2012 : 01:13:16 AM
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| I like the color of the interior walls. How are you gluing them to the floor coverings? |
Visit www.raydunakin.com to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad! |
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Ensign
Fireman
Canada
3723 Posts |
Posted - 05/02/2012 : 08:30:22 AM
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Hi Bob,the interior walls for this coach look amazing!
I have one complaint though,your very fine work most times has no explanation as to how you did it.
The photo's show the completed task, but I am left scratching my head wondering how you did it.
Like the interior walls/paneling for instance, how did you make the panel inserts?
What paint did you use on them to achieve such a nice colour?
Are the doors working, do they open & close?
I know it takes more work to do that, but I for one would love to learn more "How to" from you Bob!
Greg Shinnie |
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sgtbob
Fireman
USA
1184 Posts |
Posted - 05/02/2012 : 09:45:35 AM
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Thanks Dallas.
Ray, They are just glued in place with fast setting epoxy glue. When the side walls go on they will be glued to the base and to the wall edges making everything solid.
Greg. Sorry, I am so used to plowing ahead with my styrene I forget that what I did might not be obvious.
I don't mind getting into as much detail as you want, in fact I love to do it. [:-angel]
The walls were cut from styrene sheet and where any meet, they were glued together. Then small
styrene strips were glued in place to outline the panels. Then the panels were cut from styrene strips,
the edges scraped to a bevel (these a bit wider than the first strips), and glued to the walls between the first strips.
![]()
All those strips could have been cut from styrene sheet but I found .030 Evergreen strips
that fit my needs by simply cutting them to length. While this work looks complicated it goes real
fast using styrene and Tenax 7R solvent.
The doors were made the same way. No, they do not open and close. I made models
professionally for many years and unless it's called for for some reason, I dislike adding moving parts.
I do not see the point to it unless I intend to remove the roof to move the doors every time
someone looks at the model. Working parts require more work, usually do not look as good,
and invite onlookers to move them and break them. [:-banghead]
I looked all around for something that would be a nice "dark walnut" brown color. What I ended
up using was a spray can of Rust-Oleum Satin. The can does not specify the color, no name is
given, just the nice dark brown cap to the can.
I hope this helps but if not, speak up again and I will try my best to make it clear.
Cheers,
Bob |
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30102&whichpage=1
http://www.freewebs.com/santmod/ |
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sgtbob
Fireman
USA
1184 Posts |
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Ensign
Fireman
Canada
3723 Posts |
Posted - 05/02/2012 : 11:30:34 AM
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Thanks Bob!It all make sense to me now.
I am not finished yet though, need to pick your brain some more.
What do you use to scrap the bevel as you described it.
And how do you keep the bevel so consistent looking?
I know you enjoy me more when I try and be funny!
Greg Shinnie
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sgtbob
Fireman
USA
1184 Posts |
Posted - 05/02/2012 : 12:40:17 PM
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Greg, You mean your are NOT trying to be funny ???????[:-batman]
Oh, you're not.
OK, Let me tell you two things. First, in most cases you do not have to scrape the bevel, a
good heavy coat of paint and you can hardly tell the difference, especially in smaller scales.
Now, if you must scrape a bevel,
the tool I use is, WOW, I don't know what it's called. Years ago while working with a friend
in his metal working shop we took some pieces of steel about 1/32 " thick, 1/2 inch wide, and
4 1/2 inches long, and cut two 40 degree cuts on one end to make a point. Then we ground the
two edges that make that point on one side only. Now, if you scrape along the edge of
styrene with the NON-Sharpened side it removes a very fine curl of plastic. It was used mainly
to remove the burr from cutting the styrene. I guess you could also do it with a steel knife,
scraping, not cutting.
The material removed is so fine that if you limit scraping each side to one or two swipes it
comes out pretty even.
Cheers,
Bob |
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30102&whichpage=1
http://www.freewebs.com/santmod/ |
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Topic |
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Structures on the LP&N RR
Topic Locked
