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Frederic Testard
Engineer

France
17605 Posts

Posted - 12/04/2009 :  03:58:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I don't see why foam wouldn't work for the bottom of the river. If you are afraid of a possible reaction with the WS product, why not lay a coat of spackle?
Nice milestone with the locos running the main branchline!

Frederic Testard
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elwoodblues
Fireman

Canada
5755 Posts

Posted - 12/04/2009 :  06:44:44 AM  Show Profile  Visit elwoodblues's Homepage  Send elwoodblues a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Tom,

I used foam for a base for a river on my modules without any problems, the trick is to seal it first. A thin coat of spackle and then a coat of paint will do the trick. I like to do both as the WS product will find pin holes you didn't know was there.

Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railway Co.
http://www.cvry.ca

Edited by - elwoodblues on 12/04/2009 09:58:11 AM
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Geezer
Engineer

USA
10166 Posts

Posted - 12/04/2009 :  08:30:23 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Congratulations Tom, from an envious friend way down here
in the Pennsylvania mountains! Bravo!!! No small feat in such
a short time.
God willing, I will be framing later this month....
Thanks for the update ....



Bill
The only "REAL" Geezer

"Before you say it's my fault, Are you SURE it was my job?"

My Threads:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=39181&whichpage=1
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=34275&whichpage=1
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=28172&whichpage=1
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CieloVistaRy
Fireman

USA
5191 Posts

Posted - 12/04/2009 :  12:02:33 PM  Show Profile  Send CieloVistaRy an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Congrats Tom!

Looking forward to more.

Arthur

Arthur

Cielo Vista Railway (on30)
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BigLars
Engineer

USA
9071 Posts

Posted - 12/04/2009 :  7:55:14 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great progress Tom.

Larry
CEO Tagish & Marsh Lake RR
CFO Yukon Northern RR
COO JR Mining
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Tommatthews
Fireman

8413 Posts

Posted - 12/04/2009 :  8:41:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
One " Bull Frog " installed and wired. Just glue some ties for the siding.

Tomorrows project:
I'll spike some rail and wire it .... then test the "Bull Frog" and the F.T. #5 turnout.
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visman48
Fireman

USA
5312 Posts

Posted - 12/04/2009 :  9:09:17 PM  Show Profile  Visit visman48's Homepage  Click to see visman48's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
Tom
You are making super progress, the fun starts now as you can lay track and run engines at the same time.

Les

My forum build links;
Big Horn and Moose Creek :http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22704&whichpage=1
Locomotives: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20279
Railcars: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17827
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Tommatthews
Fireman

8413 Posts

Posted - 12/06/2009 :  12:09:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bull Frog:

I soldered 8" wires to the Bull Frog switch and spades to the other end. Then spade and wire to the track. This make for easy removal if required.

The Forney runs great with respect to the pilot and trailing trucks. The problem I have is the transition from level grade to up or down hill slope. I reduced the transition on one problem point. I have noted that on the level there is a difference in coupler height with locos ( Forney, Porter 0-4-2 and 0-4-0 side rod) and the freight cars of about 1/8 in.

Is there a way to shim the couplers and not lose the lateral movement?
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Sully
Fireman

USA
2610 Posts

Posted - 12/06/2009 :  1:05:21 PM  Show Profile  Visit Sully's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Tom...sounds like its one of two problems and you have to figure which one it is ....
if the coupler heights are slightly different "on the level" the this situation will be worse on any grade transitions. Fix that problem "on the level" first...Kadee makes thin shims that will "lower" the entire coupler box. Kadee and others make couplers with offsite shanks, higher or lower if you can't replace the box.
If its your grade transitions and your coupler heights are good then I'd look to shim the grade transitions and further smooth them out....let us know how it goes..sully
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Jerry M
Fireman

USA
4055 Posts

Posted - 12/06/2009 :  4:02:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Congratulations on the maiden run.........Jerry
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Jerry M
Fireman

USA
4055 Posts

Posted - 12/06/2009 :  4:08:12 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
By the way Tom, on my RR whenever I set a grade I use a machinist's straight edge, I lay it over the point where level goes to beginning of grade it is 24" long and when I see no light between the track and edge I know it's good to go. Same at the top if it rocks at that point it's no good. You won't ever get it Perfect but this method works for me and I have no uncoupling issues. If you can see your couplers moving up or down over the transition point it's no good, they should remain as on a flat. JMO if you follow that your problems will end IMO. Jerry
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Tommatthews
Fireman

8413 Posts

Posted - 12/06/2009 :  4:11:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The problem is the coupler heights. My Bachmann cars (freight, gondola and cattle) all match.
The difference is with the Bachmann loco couplers which need to be lowered a 1/16" to 1/8".
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Tommatthews
Fireman

8413 Posts

Posted - 12/07/2009 :  6:54:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Four Fast Track "Bull Frog" manual turnout controls have been installed.

Two Bull Frogs have been installed for reverse throw. Three controls are less that 12" from the fascia and one is 60". They are fun to install and work smoothly.

The instructions are good so I am not sure a
"how to install" is needed on this topic.
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Tommatthews
Fireman

8413 Posts

Posted - 12/08/2009 :  5:25:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have been running different locos with the same set of 3 cars this afternoon. As most know an 0-4-0 Porter, 0-4-2 Porter,Shay, Climax, and Forney etc., all react differently to your track layout.

What I was watching was how they reacted in the curves and turnouts. Mine are 22 -24 inches radius curves and #5 turnouts. The swing of the rear of the Forney was the most noticeable. It is easy to see why they need a larger radius curve.

I also had to adjust the transition of one of the track inclines. What a difference a 1/8 " makes.

This playing, fine tuning, of the track and road bed is well worth the time prior to any landscaping. After landscaping is started, you may not be able to make roadbed adjustments.

For those just starting out I hope these words
"make good food for thought" ...
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Locoman
Fireman

USA
1560 Posts

Posted - 12/09/2009 :  02:51:58 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yes Tom, thanks for the heads up, i will check the track out with all my locos now.
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