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hon3_rr
Fireman
USA
4684 Posts |
 Posted - 04/27/2009 : 9:54:20 PM
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This construction thread will focus on the Silverado Mine produced by The Model Foundry. The Model Foundry is a division of Builder's In Scale and additional information may be located at: http://www.builders-in-scale.com
I obtained my 'kit' at Caboose Hobbies in Denver and I know that they had a few remaining 'kit' packages on the peg board.
I will be working from a 'no frills' kit. This kit contains only the plans and 5 instruction cards printed on both sides. There are no castings or strip wood in the 'kit'.
I will be building this mine to fit on the module shown below which is 2ft deep by 4 ft long. It module will also have a water tank which will be constructed under the appropriate thread.
The third picture below shows the strip wood which I have colored for this build. I used some older pre-weathered wood along with new strip wood to obtain a variance in color. In addition, I used two different formula's of MikeC's stain Red-Brown #2, the majority of the wood in the stain per the recipe and approximately 1/3 of the wood in a stain with about half the ink called for and a little additional Burnt Sienna. All wood (including the prior weathered wood) was soaked 18 - 22 hours in the stain.
If you need it, MikeC's staining tutorials can be found at Rusty Stumps (www.rustystumps.com under the "How To Articles".
Building will start this week. I will be detailing the build and the techniques used in hopes that the newer modelers may pick up some new tricks and the old established guys might kick in their techniques on how they obtain the same effects.
OK... Below is the starting point.
(NOTE: Additional referenced starting pictures will be posted in the thread.)
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--KP
Life is to short to make all of the models I want to. |
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hon3_rr
Fireman
USA
4684 Posts |
Posted - 04/27/2009 : 9:58:20 PM
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--KP
Life is to short to make all of the models I want to. |
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wesleybeks
Fireman
South Africa
2206 Posts |
Posted - 04/28/2009 : 01:18:08 AM
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Cool Kris
Another interesting build to follow. Looking forward to it. |
Regards
Wes.
Dont leave for tomorrow what you can do today. |
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MikeC
Administrator
USA
21584 Posts |
Posted - 04/28/2009 : 09:30:44 AM
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This should be an interesting build to follow, Kris. Will this be one of your contest entries?
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Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm a busy man. I have a railroad to run.
Visit the Central Missouri & Southern
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Peterpools
Engineer
USA
12335 Posts |
Posted - 04/28/2009 : 5:47:34 PM
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Kris
Going to be a great thread to follow.
Peter
BCT |
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hon3_rr
Fireman
USA
4684 Posts |
Posted - 04/29/2009 : 12:26:40 AM
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Thanks all for the input, and I hope you enjoy this HO scale build.
Again, everyone PLEASE feel free to jump in with suggestions and comments throughout this build as I really want it to be a good overview for some of the newer modelers joining the forum. All too often we see other’s work and wonder how the effect was obtained. As we post, we tend to forget that others may not know how the effect(s) were obtained. I also ask that anyone with exhibit module experience let me know where I may be going too far past the 3 foot rule on this build, bracing suggestions, etc.
MikeC: I don’t think this will be a contest winner out of the gate as I don’t have the time to complete it to a full contest quality level module. My goal is to get the module complete and with enough quality that it can be part of the Slim Rails modular club exhibit. This club has awards for their modules, including National Narrow Gauge Convention awards in the past. The goal is to have this module ready to show in the National Narrow Gauge Convention in Colorado Springs this year. The module will then be reworked to include a stamp mill to be built this winter. I hope everyone will get a kick out of the stamp mill build as there is a [:-bouncy]‘surprise’[:-bouncy] to that build… so stay tuned.
Peter: … sorry… no ‘heads-up’s in this build out of the gate, but looking forward to your strong input on this build so I hope you’ll contribute often. I’m sure we’ll figure out something somewhere for the tag.
For the newer folks let’s start off with some bench setup basics.
I work on a glass plate which provides a very flat surface. As I model in HO scale, I have found that 18 in x 12 in glass plates work well. I suggest something thicker than 1/4 inch and with a ‘pencil’ bevel. This will also allow you to use a T-square to line up various objects during the build as well as making it more comfortable to lay your arms/wrist across the edges of the glass. Tell the glass cutter that it is important to be as square as possible as the purpose is for a ‘surface plate for precise model building’. Those guys appear to enjoy the challenge of cutting/grinding it as square as possible if they have a good reason. For those really interested, after about 30 years of modeling I have 3 plates in use. They last about 5 years each. That’s getting to celebrate each 10 years of modeling with an additional plate… and number 4 is coming soon.
I make at least 3 copies of each of the plans. As most kit plans are usually printed using a reasonable quality printing process, it is important to try to get as high of quality copy as possible. Do not run the plans through the copy machine at your local Kinko’s. Place each plan on the copy bed and then copy. This will help avoid paper stretch effects.
Prior to making copies, draw a vertical and horizontal line on the plans using a scale ruler. Measure the lines at the copy dealer with the scale ruler to make sure that there is no copy error. If you have some error, try to correct it as much as possible. This is why I go to a Kinko’s or other large copy shop, they can help resolve the distortion errors or get you on a better machine.
Multiple plan copies you say… why??
Tools & Technique: Plans
Use double sided scotch tape (3/4 inch) to attach the plans to the glass plate.
• Attach the tape to the backside of the plans. Tape all edges to within about ¼ inch of the plan sheet edge. Add a couple of tape strips to the middle of the plan sheet.
• Roll the plans onto the glass plate from one edge of the glass plate to the other edge keeping the plans as fully taunt as possible in both the vertical and horizontal planes. Try to use a T-Square if possible in this process using one of the long lines in both vertical and horizontal planes on the plans to set the plan sheet on the plate as square as possible.
• Attach double sided tape on all 4 edges (the entire length of the plan sheet) to within about ¼ inch of the edge.
• Cover the plan sheet with wax paper, keeping the wax paper as taunt as possible.
• Trim the wax paper to extend about ½ inch past the plan sheet on all sides. Use an X-acto or single edge razor blade for this process in conjunction with a T-square or long ruler.
• Using Packing Scotch Tape (2 inch wide) or some other wide tape, tape the wax paper to the glass plate. I overlap the wax paper by about 1 inch on all sides. If needed, wrap the tape around the edges of the glass plate.
• You can put a piece of graph paper on the back side of the plate to assist in lining up parts via rulers and the T-square. I use ‘Clearprint’ No. 1000HP-10 Fade-Out design and sketch vellum in 11 in x 17 in sheets. I also use Canson 8/8 Cross Section, again 11 in x 17 in sheets. These products provide about 8 squares to the inch.
During the course of the build, a new plan sheet may need to be mounted and the glass plate already has a plan mounted. You will destroy the plan sheet removing it from the glass plate, thus the multiple copies. A lot of modelers keep their original plans and only work on copies.
Use Goof-Off to assist in removing the tape residue from the glass plates between plan sheet mountings. Goof-Off can be found at your local hardware store.
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--KP
Life is to short to make all of the models I want to. |
Edited by - hon3_rr on 06/29/2009 5:08:25 PM |
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Frederic Testard
Engineer
France
16441 Posts |
Posted - 04/29/2009 : 5:50:05 PM
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Kris, I'll be happy to follow your build of this very interesting mine. Ten years ago, I used a similar "no frills" kit to build the Leaverite Mine, when Caboose Hobbies reissued the plans of this long sold out kit for scratchbuilders. People may be interested to know that Builders in Scale sells for a very reasonable price the plans of all their sold out kits.
This mine is really an interesting subject. It was featured in the early 80s (or maybe even the late 70') Gazette, in an article by Harry Brunk (which was probably the origin for this kit). However, the kit gives a more interesting layout, with the A-frame above the track.
I'll be glad to follow not only the kit, but also the module construction. |
Frederic Testard |
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hon3_rr
Fireman
USA
4684 Posts |
Posted - 04/29/2009 : 7:19:08 PM
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| Frederic, You are correct in that Harry Bunk (who still has running articles in the Gazette after all these years!!) had input on this kit as he is acknowledged in the "History" notes which come with the instructions. |
--KP
Life is to short to make all of the models I want to. |
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silveradonorthern
Crew Chief
USA
614 Posts |
Posted - 04/30/2009 : 12:04:12 PM
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Hi Kris,
This is going to be a fun thread to follow. Thanks for taking the time to share. |
Michael |
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hon3_rr
Fireman
USA
4684 Posts |
Posted - 05/02/2009 : 02:36:53 AM
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For the new folks, just a couple of other bench basics prior to moving on since the old guys didn’t jump in. You probably know these, but always:
•Use the most light possible, the more natural light the better. This will really help out your modeling since one of the biggest tricks is to use magnification whenever you are building.
•Model with plenty of ventilation.
•Read the instructions fully prior to starting any kit.
•Replace all razor blades with new blades.
•Remember safety and think the little ones who may get into the paint or the cat that will jump up on the bench only to find a exposed razor blade.
-- Any other quick one’s guys? -- [:-bigeyes]
I used a Northwest Short Line Chopper, Duplicutter II and True Sander to cut the ore bin legs/frame and to get all the frame pieces the same length.
If you are using ‘The Chopper’ to cut your wood, you will be able to get a good square cut on larger sized strip wood (like these scale 10 x 10’s) by rotating the wood in between cuts, cutting only about a quarter to a third of the way thorough the wood at a time. When you go to cut the 4th side, the wood will separate and will only need minimal sanding to clean up.
Use a ‘True Sander’ to sand the end square on the remaining stock strip wood prior to cutting the next framing timber. This way you will have a good square end to lay other members across the ends and create a good looking joint.
Since some of the timber had to be cut longer than the stops in ‘The Chopper’ would allow, I used a simple ad hoc cutting jig in the ‘Duplicutter II’. I removed the stock holding bar and then used a #18 blade held against the end of one of the side guides. The first picture below shows the basic set-up. Again the strip wood stock was rotated to all four sides as part of the cutting process.
When all the wood was cut, gang sand all the wood for a given size at once to get all strips the same length. This should be some very light sanding.
The frame timbers were then attacked with a wire brush… probably a little too aggressive in this case. If I was building a sawmill, I had enough fuzz to fill the sawdust bin. The second picture shows the wood after the wire brush treatment.
The wood was then wiped with a damp rag. I used rubbing alcohol on the rag to create a ‘tack cloth’.
The framing timbers were then re-stained with a light ink & alcohol (A&I) stain. I used a ‘stippling’ or dabbing technique to apply the stain to the timbers. The stain was not brushed onto the wood. The ends had more stain applied than the sides of the wood, as a full brush load of stain was first applied to the ends with the excess running down the sides.
Tools and Techniques: Subtle A&I Wash Application to Accent Shadow:
I stained the longer (front) frame members with the brush first dipped into clear alcohol and then into the A&I stain. The shorter back frame members were stained with the brush first dipped into the A&I stain and then into clear alcohol. This provides a little darker base to work with. On this model, the shorter members will be against a hillside, and would probably be darker in color. In addition, this darker base will help accent the ‘shadow’ which this side of the structure will be in.
For those who are interested, The dilution of india ink to rubbing alcohol which I use is:
1 teaspoon ink to one pint alcohol = light stain
2 teaspoons ink to one pint alcohol = med. stain
3 teaspoons ink to one pint alcohol = dark stain
This mix ratio was posted by SMASON2 here on the forum. I use Higgins Black India Ink (non water-proof) and 91% alcohol.
When the wood was ‘cool’ to the touch, but not fully dry from the A&I wash application, a light wash of the red stain was applied using the same techniques as described for the A&I wash just applied above. This wash was applied while the wood was lightly damp to help avoid a large volume of red stain being absorbed at this time. The 3rd picture will provide you with a idea on the coloring at this stage. (Note the subtle color difference between the first 3 timbers on the left to the short timbers on the right.) I will need to apply an additional red stain wash to the timbers to obtain the overall red hue desired. This will be done later in the build to further blend the wood. This may not be necessary in a lot of builds, but I used a lot of older pre stained strip wood in my bill of materials, so blending the wood components is going to be a bit more difficult than usual.
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--KP
Life is to short to make all of the models I want to. |
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Peterpools
Engineer
USA
12335 Posts |
Posted - 05/02/2009 : 11:29:33 AM
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Kris
The weathered wood looks quite natural and convincing. I'm curious as to your wood chopping/cutting method. any reason why you prefer this system rather then a NWSL Chopper?
Peter
BCT |
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hon3_rr
Fireman
USA
4684 Posts |
Posted - 05/02/2009 : 2:45:41 PM
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Peter.. I used this method due to the length of wood being too long for "The Chopper" to handle for the longer frame pieces. I could have also done a quick jig, but I had the Duplicutter handy. I sometimes use tools in a non-conventional manner. I did use The Chopper on the shorter pieces. As a side note, I did pick up the NW Short Line Chopper III today, which will handle the longer pieces as I'm slowly gearing up to do a few O scale modules and builds on down the road. (Read: The old eyes are going bad and the 'shakes' are affecting the modeling in HO scale..) Thanks for the positive comment on the coloring.
OK.. Big BUMMER...[:-banghead][:-banghead]
[:-angel] And I need some help.[:-angel]
I just got back from Caboose Hobbies in Denver and they do not have any "Ore Chute Doors". Walters is also out of stock.  They also did not have any 'ore detail packets' which had any ore bin doors in them. It appears that Micro Engineering created the castings for the kit. I am going to send an e-mail to CC Crow to see if he has any castings in stock.
I wanted to have the ore doors handy prior to doing the framing to make sure those doors would fit correctly between the framing on the ore bin. Reference the lead in pictures to this thread - "Detail of Ore Chutes" to see what I'm talking about.
I don't want to try to cast or scratch build the chutes and opening/closing hardware. If I can't locate something fairly quickly, I will scratch build 5 units, but I'm not excited to go down that path.
After working with Brett's (SierraWest Scale Models) castings for the past few years, I'd never be happy with anything I'd cast.
Does anyone know of a hobby shop or Mfg. which might have suitable ore door detail parts in stock? As a backup, does anyone recall any thread where the scratch building of the chute doors was described?
Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions / ideas.
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--KP
Life is to short to make all of the models I want to. |
Edited by - hon3_rr on 05/02/2009 3:14:00 PM |
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Frederic Testard
Engineer
France
16441 Posts |
Posted - 05/02/2009 : 4:41:32 PM
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Nice wood and interesting cutting method, Kris.
About the doors, I rezlly don't think they would be that difficult to build from scratch. From what I can guess seeing the photo, you'd need to scratchbuild some racks, which would be easy with a suitably shaped needle file, find some small gears to actuate the doors and wheels to actuate the gears : brake wheels should work and you just have to find the gears. Considering the relatively important size they seem to have on the photo, maybe small O scale gears would work (I know that Western Scale Models has a set of gears and misc. parts, maybe they would sell a custom set of gears if you requested it). The remainder is simply a matter of wood for the frame and styrene for the door itself : within your capabilities, no doubt. You might want to use one of John Hitzeman's old articles in the gazette about the scratchbuilding of his stamp mill. If I remember well, one of them contained pictures of bin doors, and maybe some modelling tips too.
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Frederic Testard |
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mikethetrainman
Fireman
USA
1633 Posts |
Posted - 05/02/2009 : 10:12:25 PM
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| Kris Great looking project. I really like your idea of doing a build showing new builders some of the ropes. Even an old guy like me can learn something I have always cut the 10x10 and 12x12's with a saw and miter box. I will give the rolling of the timbers in my Copper 2 a try. Thanks for the idea. |
Mike Mace
Northern Division of the Santa Fe |
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Peterpools
Engineer
USA
12335 Posts |
Posted - 05/03/2009 : 05:36:48 AM
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Kris
Thanks for the info. Need to look into the differences between a NWSL Chopper II and III. I have used a Chopper III for a long time but have always found I needed to square off of ends anyway with my True Sander. Maybe a III will eliminate the problem. I do change the blades regularly.
Peter
BCT |
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deemery
Fireman
USA
3695 Posts |
Posted - 05/03/2009 : 10:11:16 AM
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Thanks much for the extensive notes on this build!
On the safety side: I took a hint from my Doctor's office and produced a 'sharps bin'. I took a plastic container that held screws, cut a slot in the top, and hung it on my workbench. Any time I replace a razor blade, X-acto knife blade, etc, it goes into this bin.
Once when emptying the trash in the train room, I got nicked by an X-Acto knife blade. That's when I realized that was dangerous, and came up with this idea.
Another good idea, a knife and razor blade holder:
Note the razor blade -stuck to the front of the holder- with a magnet. This keeps them from getting lost in the big mess that is my workspace.
I work on a glass surface and when I'm done, I'll take a used razor blade, use it to scrape glue and paint off of the glass, and also scrape down the piece of Formica that I use as a cutting surface. Then it goes into the 'sharps bin'.
dave
p.s. that yellow thing on the right background is a .03 leadholder (fancy mechanical pencil) from an arts supply store. If you find one, make sure you also buy extra leads, .03 leads are hard to find. They're -great- for making very accurate marks. If you're marking styrene, very lightly sand the styrene to get the pencil lead to stick.
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The Model Foundry - Silverado Mine
