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 Carrie Creek Land Co. construction series
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

USA
948 Posts

Posted - 02/22/2011 :  1:16:33 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bob,
Thanks for the idea. Had to read it over a few times to get just what you was describing. Would gluing all of the joists to the floor and then using blocks or pins in the corners to locate be easier? The head rig will be sitting on the main beams and the floor fitted around it and the carriage way.

If I do it this way how would I maintain the continuity of the belts thru the joint? I am assuming that I would be using paper strips for the belts. I figure that some of them would be on an angle and even paint or glue saturated paper would sag eventually.

Phil
POR (press on regardless)
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railman28
Fireman

USA
1720 Posts

Posted - 02/22/2011 :  5:03:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Phil,
Blocks and pins would certainly work. And that's what I'm going to use on the removable wall on my shop.
It was to maintain the continuity of belts and to hid that they actually are cut at the floor line that I suggested making use of the floor joists, fire-stops and safety boxes on top of the floors. You would have to attach the real ends of the belts in the cellar to a joist or fire-stop and attach the above floor portion of the belt to the safety box.
If this sound interesting I guess I could do a sketch. Let me know if your interested.

It's Only Make Believe

Bob Harris
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

USA
948 Posts

Posted - 02/23/2011 :  2:33:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yes, Bob, a sketch would be great. I am not getting my head around this.
Thanks again for your input.
Got to go past my bedtime.

Phil
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railman28
Fireman

USA
1720 Posts

Posted - 02/25/2011 :  02:00:15 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Phil,
Here's sketch.
The green are the caps on the piles.
The red are the floor joists glued to the caps.
The blue are the floor joist glues to the floor.
Notice the boxs glue to the floor that will fit into frames (the red lines) made of floor joists and fire blocks. notice the Belt whole labeled belt box you would put two small price of material to attached each belt to. You would of course paint-camouflage this so it's not seen. The safety boxes are just 2x10s (or so) mounted on their edge to frame the belt hole.

It's Only Make Believe

Bob Harris
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Frederic Testard
Engineer

France
16441 Posts

Posted - 02/25/2011 :  04:40:03 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I think Bob's idea is excellent. Having the belt cut will allow you to leave the bottom parts with the machinery on the base when you remove the upper part. This way you won't have cumbersome extensions below the main structures, and it will make the handling of it easier.

Frederic Testard
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

USA
948 Posts

Posted - 05/14/2011 :  8:14:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi, everyone, Been experimenting with some stains for the wood framing for the sawmill.
Besides the black A/I I have sepia A/I the rest of the samples are using either Polly Scale paint or Model Masters acryl paint.
So, here are pics of the samples.
This building is not going to be older than 5 years or so, so not needing alot of ageing.

Chart of the samples







The bottom of "J" has B applied. N again has B applied on the bottom as a final coat instead of A. H has B so is the same as the bottom of P



L came out looking purple for some reason.
I am leaning toward the d&rgw yellow with the sepia A/I over.

Any comments? Thanks for looking.

Phil
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alpha_1
Engine Wiper

Canada
140 Posts

Posted - 05/18/2011 :  11:58:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Phil. I've just read your thread here for the second time and I congratulate you on your progress. Your ingenuity is a great inspiration. Thanks for sharing this with us.

Hope to see more in the near future.

Cheers!

Gord Schneider
Port Credit, ON
President & Chief Engineer
Kootenay Lakes Steam & Navigation Co. Ltd.
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

USA
948 Posts

Posted - 05/20/2011 :  10:44:34 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Gord, Thanks for the reply, Happy that there is something here that inspires you.

I wish that progress was faster but it is not.

Kind of bogged down with how to make a jig for the switchstands. The brass one loss accuracy after the second one, need one that is made of harder material. More experiment needed.

Phil
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Mainframer
Engine Wiper

USA
304 Posts

Posted - 05/20/2011 :  1:38:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey Phil, I have been looking at your samples for a few days. I think for new wood less than 5 years old I would use I or O. Then I would use A or G for the bottom of the boards at ground level to show some wicking and dirt splash from rain. Your sawmill is going to be fairly new and well maintained but unpainted so you don't need the gray/black real weathered look. Bring this up with you the next time you are here. Tom
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

USA
948 Posts

Posted - 05/28/2011 :  3:53:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Tom, Thanks for the input, I would agree if this was fresh cut wood but I think that the wood would darken some after 5 years. This is west central Arkansas so we have humidity and heat which might gray it out more than I am thinking.

On another subject here is an update on some sencery growth. Made some hills to go with the one in the corner. So, comments....



These next two pics are same just have added the plaster cloth.




I am thinking that there would be a stream coming down the valley so which of the forks work better?


Here, I stuck the pilings and the main frame of the sawmill back in place, they are not glued together yet. Still need to stain them. The posts outside of the boiler will be supporting the roof extension.



Phil
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

USA
948 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2011 :  2:10:17 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A small update of whats happening at glacial speed.
Cut the stream bed out following the left hand path. Did some terra forming to blend in.
Then I made this culvert side hand carved into a piece of styrene sheet. I highlighted the mortar lines with pencil lead so that they would show up.
Thoughts on the rock work please.

This first pic is with just the fluorescents on and no flash


this is just the spots and also no flash


See the previous post for a wider view of the area. I will be using plaster to finish carving the stream bed in.

Thanks for everybodies input.

Phil
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railman28
Fireman

USA
1720 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2011 :  2:18:04 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice progress Phil. Clever use of construction paper.

It's Only Make Believe

Bob Harris
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

USA
948 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2011 :  03:18:57 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bob, Thanks for the kind words. I was having a hard time picturing the mountains in the background and as I did not want to paint something and not have it come out right I needed another way. So, one day while wandering around Hobby Lobby I saw this pad of construction paper with these colours and a [:-idea] went off. I don't think that the paper will be staying but it got the juices flowing.

Onward, with an update here is a pic of a sample for the pilings holding up the sawmill floor. Of the pics I took this seems to be the closest to real. The left one I "painted" the black on first, this is from a Marks-a-Lot, then brushed on my raw sienna/alcohol mix, followed immediately with a blending brush of straight alcohol. This was followed with the gray primer/water mix.
the right one I did the raw sienna/alcohol mix first followed with the Marks-a-lot, then the alcohol brush blending and the gray last again.



below the black is nothing as that is where I was holding.
Anyway, for an aged creosoted log dipped in tar before driving look, is this close?

Phil
POR (press on regardless)
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

USA
948 Posts

Posted - 07/16/2011 :  4:05:12 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Another update,
Last night I made this gate so that the pond could be drained. I haven't painted it yet but wanted some feed back as to if this was too massive or neede further work. So some pics of the gate and posed pics of where it would live.

I did not cut in the gear teeth. Haven't decided if I should or not. This is right at the front of the scene.










I also have not settled on the final shape of the dam. I am leaning toward having it curved.
The top of the pond water will be somewhere around where the dotted line is
The board walkway will cross over the spillway I just wanted it to show here. This dam might end up a little lower as the spillway is now 3/8" above the pond bottom. Three pours? I know this is dependent on how the water ends up looking. Will have to do some test samples first. Somehow, making the pond level match the spillway height.


Open to any and all thoughts.

Phil
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Frederic Testard
Engineer

France
16441 Posts

Posted - 07/21/2011 :  05:30:54 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice work on the gate, Phil. While I'm not a specialist, I'd say that it seems to fit the scene quite well size-wise. It's the kind of detail that makes the model more interesting to viewers.

Frederic Testard
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