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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
USA
982 Posts |
Posted - 05/23/2010 : 11:06:46 AM
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As I stated in the last post I needed to do something else about the harp stands so I came up with a slightly different design.
I started with a 1/8"x1/4" rectangle brass tube. This has the required 3/32" space so I will not have to solder spacers to the sides. All I will have to do is to solder on some feet which will be 1/8" angles.
After looking at the square blob I decided I wanted to pretty it up some so I filed an arch in the top and ground out the sides a little.
Here are some pics of the new prototype. I made this fairly quickly and with some jigs I could cut the time down a bunch.





I used the arm from the first prototype for this one. I will be shorting the arm on the new ones. The old one was about scale 8'high and the new arms will be 5 1/2' high. You will also notice that I changed the pivot from a .030" rod to a 00-90 hex headed screw and nut.
Later,
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Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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LandNnut
Fireman
   
USA
1495 Posts |
Posted - 05/23/2010 : 12:05:22 PM
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Hi Phil; Just curious why you built your shelf at an angle instead of flat. L&N nut Jon |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
USA
982 Posts |
Posted - 05/23/2010 : 1:59:10 PM
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Jon, It makes it easier to see the link and pilot lights. Also I am planning on either installing some lighted on/off switches or circut breakers for the three blocks and wanted to see these also.
Thanks for looking and for your comments. |
Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
USA
982 Posts |
Posted - 10/23/2010 : 02:53:37 AM
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Hi, all, it's been awhile since I've updated this so this is what I have been comtemplating. The mountains behind the sawmill I been unable to seem to get the pic in my head to focus so I came up with this idea of using construction paper and cut some mountains out and see if it helps. I think that I want the ranges to fade out into the distance to the left and right of the corner. these pics here are not quite right but I am getting closer to what I am visualizing.
This first pic is with the fluorescent lights

this pic is with just the spots dimmed and no flash

and this one with the camera set on red eye flash and the dimmed spot lights

Just trying to get some ideas working in my poor brain. |
Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
USA
982 Posts |
Posted - 01/29/2011 : 4:41:26 PM
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Hi, All, Just thought that a update was due as to what is transpirering on the CCLC. Been working on the working plans for the Oxbleu sawmill. I have finalized them and will be starting the build soon.
But first I need to do some ground work so to speak. Right now the area is just the 2 layers of foam. As the mill will be sitting on pilings I needed to get them driven so that I could carve the ground slopes in. So, I made a template of the holes for the piles and taped this in place and "drilled or drove the piles" in place. Pics:
template taped in place

Here is the jig I made to hold the brass tube vertical while I "drilled" the hole for the piling. I filed some teeth on the end of the 1/4" tube as that really helped cutting thru the foam. The piles go all the way down to the plywood sub base so that I will have a level start point. These piles are not glued yet and I may never glue them down, will allow me to remove the mill if necessary.

Here is a pic of the boiler that I will be using for the mill. I will cut it down removing the sand dome.

There will be 1/8"x3/16" beams on top of the piles and 1/16"x1/8" floor joists on top at right angles to the beams.
It has been suggested that I move the build to Mike's craftsman forum, so most of the pics will be there.
More updates as I get the ground carved and covered.
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Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
USA
982 Posts |
Posted - 02/18/2011 : 7:11:16 PM
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An update on the going ons around the CCLC. Some pics of the cut down boiler. After removing the sand dome area it still looked a little long so I removed another 5/16" from just infront of the firebox. Filled in the bottom of the firebox and extended the stack. Thinking about leaving the fancy turnings on the stack just for fun.
Carved away the ground to get the ground slope down to the pond. My story is the the stream comes down from the left (the 9" shelf) and empties into a swampy depression before running off stage to the left. My orginal idea was to have the stream run to the right and vanish into the backdrop. After thinking about it the current would move the logs away from the jackslip, the poor log jockeys wouldn't like fighting the current all the time hence the change. So, now the pond is the dregged out swamp. Still not sure what to do about the ground contours between the pond and the backdrop where the stream was going to go. Anyway some pics:

the 4 holes beside the boiler are for the posts for the boiler roof extension. Cut out the basement areas for the machinery


here is the area I am at wits end over.

Had this idea for a bumper so made a quick one and put in place to see if it looks like I thought it should. Not quite.

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Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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Frederic Testard
Engineer
    
France
16524 Posts |
Posted - 02/18/2011 : 7:38:42 PM
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Phil, I had missed your january post. I like your vertical keeper jig, plus the idea of not glueing the piling and have a removable mill.
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Frederic Testard |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
USA
982 Posts |
Posted - 02/18/2011 : 8:43:11 PM
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Frederic, Thanks for looking, don't worry about your missing anything I haven't been posting much. Appearently, I was afflicted like others here last year with no gumption for MRRing.
I hope that after glueing the floor on and the ground goop on that the piles will pull out easily. haven't figured out how to arrange the belting/shafting from the machinery that will allow me to remove the building. |
Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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Frederic Testard
Engineer
    
France
16524 Posts |
Posted - 02/19/2011 : 06:58:13 AM
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Having belts a bit loose is not unprototypical if their orientation is close to horizontal, due to their weight, the main problem is how to access this very remote area to remove and reinstall them.
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Frederic Testard |
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Dutchman
Administrator
    
USA
23277 Posts |
Posted - 02/19/2011 : 08:37:21 AM
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Phil,
Good to see activity again. You can add me to the list of those who when on a modeling hiatus in 2010.
Neat idea on the jig for vertical "drilling".
As for the track bumper, how about keeping your two larger vertical posts, but then building something like this one, with the angle braces lining up with those vertical posts?
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Bruce
Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3 |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
USA
982 Posts |
Posted - 02/19/2011 : 5:55:54 PM
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Bruce, Thanks, the jig was the simplest way I came up with, wore my hand out cutting all those holes, over 60 of them.
I was trying to make something that would stop the wheels without catching the Kadee coupler. I realize that the coupler is designed for the impact more than the wheels. Would add another 1/2" more to the siding .
Frederic, The problem lies with leaving the machinery on the ground while removing the building. I could, and most likely will, attach the shafting and machinery to the piles or building so that everything comes up. But decisions....[:-banghead] |
Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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Frederic Testard
Engineer
    
France
16524 Posts |
Posted - 02/20/2011 : 04:50:06 AM
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Yes, Phil, it's certainly the best solution. It's probably simply a matter of having two units with the machinery (I say two since I saw two places in your foam base) and after completing them, hanging them below the main first floor, which can be done solidly enough to remove everything without a lot of risk.
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Frederic Testard |
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railman28
Fireman
   
USA
1780 Posts |
Posted - 02/20/2011 : 12:44:45 PM
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Phil, When I started my mill 20 years ago I made the base removable so that I could remove it and the mill together. It probably too late for you to do that but, that is how I did it. I also chose not to model the line shaft in the mills basement. It made sense then but probably not the course I would take today. My current build, my machine shop will be removable from the layout for maintenance. It is built the same way. There will be no belts or line shafts across the joints.
I'm enjoying following your fine build. |
It's Only Make Believe
Bob Harris |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
USA
982 Posts |
Posted - 02/20/2011 : 4:08:28 PM
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Yes Frederic, There will be aleast 2 engines in the basement. The main one for the main saws and another one for the gang and cutoff saws. There will be another double cylinder one on the jackslip powering the lift chain. Then I am thinking I will need a small one outside for the sawdust conveyors. If I can't get the main conveyor high enough to fit over the gondola in one lift I will have to split it in two.
Bob, Thanks, and yes, it is too late. the foam is glued to the ply base which is screwed from the top. One reason why one shouldn't do it this way.[:-banghead] Actually I could unscrew the risers from the joists but then I would have to cut the base and foam under the dump track switch as this is basically a cookie cut base build. |
Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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railman28
Fireman
   
USA
1780 Posts |
Posted - 02/21/2011 : 02:10:38 AM
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quote: Originally posted by Carrie Creek
Bob, Thanks, and yes, it is too late.
Since that is the case might I make this suggestion; As Fredrick suggested build the mill in two sections. The foundation and from the floor up. Cap the pilings with your 1/8 x 3/16 beams as normal but glue half of your floor joists to the caps and the other half to the the floor material. Use material the same size of your floor joists to build fire brakes. but glue them all to the flooring so that they lock in place when set on the base. Cut the belts at the floor and use these fire blocks to block the view of their end when the mill is on the foundation. From the top view, you can disguise the end of the belt by building a box around the hole through the floor. Some mills actually did this to keep the personal from accidentally stepping into one of these holes. |
It's Only Make Believe
Bob Harris |
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