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Harsco
Fireman
USA
1107 Posts |
 Posted - 02/12/2011 : 2:33:33 PM
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| Eric....grabbing my ruler, the thickness of the Foamcore is about 18 scale inches...not being familiar with concrete road surfaces, that might be a bit on the heavy side, but certainly plausible by my reckoning. |
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Neil M
Fireman
Australia
2173 Posts |
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MarkF
Engineer
USA
9329 Posts |
Posted - 02/13/2011 : 09:31:35 AM
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| Looks like that end of the railroad is finally getting some attention. The bridge looks great, and knowing the area, will also be a nice scene divider between Division and Harsco Shipping. I see lot's of grout in your future! |
Mark
See my homepage at http://home.comcast.net/~prrndiv/
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dlwrailfan1
Crew Chief
USA
574 Posts |
Posted - 02/13/2011 : 5:46:54 PM
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The question about Pennsylvania 'Dark Stone' bridge piers was stuck in my head. Today my car took me under the former PRR Trenton Cut Off and I have a measuring tape with me (handy at Lowes and Home Depot).
Interesting -- the stones vary in length on this Colbert St bridge -- a very quiet road that allows for safe study. The longest was four feet. The height has to be consistent and was 20". At the end the stones are exposed due to recent construction -- no weeds or debris in the way. They are 30" deep. The mortar lines are 1" thick.
Over time the bridge was reinforced and it looks like they raised the track level. I posted a very short video at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_w6H8GwLezQ
Eric
PS: Just imagine the thousands of PRR/CR/NS freights that pounded across the bridge in the last hundred years. |
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Harsco
Fireman
USA
1107 Posts |
Posted - 02/13/2011 : 8:33:59 PM
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| Eric - that's exactly what I was trying for; from the workbench here in South Jersey, I guesstimated the dimensions at 18 inches high by 40 inches long, or roughly a 1/4" x 1/2" - not too far off. Your video shows some interesting weathering and shades of color, although the characteristic PRR brownish-black is fairly obvious. Thanks for the research and posting... |
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MikeMc
Engine Wiper
USA
158 Posts |
Posted - 02/14/2011 : 12:45:25 PM
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Rick,
The bridge from cardstock looks terrific. Nice scratchbuilding job there. And thanks for mentioning the Welder glue. I have some paper products from Clever for siding and roofing that I want to try out and was putting it off wondering what glue would be best, knowing that white glue would probably be a bad choice and CA would probably be difficult to work with. Appreciate your step by steps here!
Mike McNamara
Delran, NJ
nekrailroad.com |
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BBLmber
Fireman
USA
4316 Posts |
Posted - 02/14/2011 : 2:24:41 PM
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You mitre try acrylic caulk, it has been used to bind foam to plywood with good success.
Mark |
W,L,&E |
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Harsco
Fireman
USA
1107 Posts |
Posted - 02/15/2011 : 05:49:11 AM
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Mike....Mark will tell you I have a glue fetish or something; I've tried everything it seems to find that "perfect adhesive" for modeling. I really can't get a handle on exactly what "Welder" is; it kind of smells like traditional tube cement for plastic, but is a lot more tacky, almost as it it has CA in it. What I like best about it is it's aggressiveness...you can place a part and it stays, yet can still be adjusted if necessary. It does tend to be a bit stringy like plastic glue, but not nearly as often. So far I've only used it for cardstock material; John R favors the more traditional Goo for his card models.
Mark: I read where people have used the caulk but I've never tried it...can you give me a brand name (I feel a trip to Home Depot coming on!) |
Edited by - Harsco on 02/15/2011 05:50:57 AM |
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BBLmber
Fireman
USA
4316 Posts |
Posted - 02/15/2011 : 08:02:02 AM
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Rick, I can't remember the brand but at the module building session of the MaDModule group Kevin Hunter gave the building program and it was his comments on how to attach foam to plywood that made me think of the possible use.
Here is his blog with his contact info, he is a great guy and very helpful.
http://www.berretthill.com/trains/Welcome.html
Hope this helps.
Mark |
W,L,&E |
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LandNnut
Fireman
USA
1495 Posts |
Posted - 02/16/2011 : 5:19:58 PM
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Dap Alex plus clear is a good caulk. Make sure you get the clear as the others have kaolin and other additives that are not helpful.
L&N nut
Jon |
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Edited by - LandNnut on 02/16/2011 5:20:55 PM |
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George D
Moderator
USA
10027 Posts |
Posted - 02/16/2011 : 8:30:23 PM
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I’m getting caught up on your work, Rick. Working with Strathmore is fun, isn’t it. That bridge is looking good. I particularly like the stone abutment.
George
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Harsco
Fireman
USA
1107 Posts |
Posted - 02/17/2011 : 06:28:57 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by George D
I’m getting caught up on your work, Rick. Working with Strathmore is fun, isn’t it. That bridge is looking good. I particularly like the stone abutment.
George
I agree, George...I love the challenge of trying to cut two strips the exact same size...LOL. One thing that John R taught me was to use a common, everyday utility knife, although with a sharp blade...he pointed out correctly that a regular X-Acto knife will tend to roll in your hand and wander more on long cuts. The other thing it reinforces for me is the benefit of patience; no matter how thick the material is, the first "cut" should always, always, always be a very light score, which creates a groove for the knife blade to follow on subsequent passes. As simple and easy as that sounds, I sometimes find myself pressing too hard and screwing up the cut...LOL |
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George D
Moderator
USA
10027 Posts |
Posted - 02/17/2011 : 07:55:03 AM
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Rick, I’m short on patience, but I too have learned you gotta make a couple passes to cut Strathmore. I’ll have to try using a utility knife the next time I cut Strathmore, thanks for the tip.
George
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Harsco
Fireman
USA
1107 Posts |
Posted - 02/17/2011 : 08:35:05 AM
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George, the other tip I learned is to use an inexpensive utility knife with a fixed blade; the sliding blade models tend to have a lot of slop/travel that can make it wander around too much. John's premise for the larger knife is that with more surface area, it's easier to grip and maintain a steady angle. I've cut strips that end up with a very noticeable bevel to them because the blade was inadvertently tilted inward as I made the cut.
The other thing I like about Strathmore and the better quality illustration/mat board is the cleanness of the edge; no fuzzies or unsightly burrs. I do sometimes get a slight ridge along the cut line (usually when I press too hard), but that's easily remedied by pulling it through your fingers. |
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Vagel Keller
Crew Chief
USA
727 Posts |
Posted - 02/18/2011 : 11:25:25 PM
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| Great tutorial on the road viaduct, Rick! I have never worked with illustration board; will have to think about giving it a try. |
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Topic |
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Harrisburg Terminal Railroad (HTRR)
