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Harsco
Fireman

USA
1101 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2011 :  6:44:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Joe: thanks for the comment...as always, the jury's out....we'll just have to see how it turns out; the last picture might show it sitting in a trash can...LOL

Bruce: thanks for the motivation; I wasn't ignoring Mark's motion or Ralph's second...I'm just a little uncomfortable using the "C" word when it comes to something like this...I'm sorta/kinda treating the whole thing as an experiment of sorts, an attempt to see what can be done (or not) with the medium. Having built the three tall bents, I'm now trying to figure out how to build the smaller ones, since the space is somewhat limited and I can't exactly follow Dean's example. I plan on making the building shell out of illustration board and use the paper siding as well, but there will be plastic on the menu somewhere.

I DID download the Golden Spike application form, does that count? Dick G went over the parameters with me in person, now I just have to see if I have enough scratch built cars and structures that would qualify. Mark is gonna pass out laughing if I claim any kind of electrical knowledge; electrons and I just don't get along for some reason.

Jim: $80.00 per kit x five kits? With your track record? <sniff, sniff> I smell the genesis of a future Musser thread! Let's see....PVC pipe, lots of Archer rivet decals, a few fittings....piece of cake for you. My only problem with it was the rivets...welding would be the joining method of choice by that time period...riveting was on it's way out as a manufacturing process by the early sixties.
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MarkF
Engineer

USA
9270 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2011 :  12:02:11 AM  Show Profile  Visit MarkF's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Harsco

thanks for the motivation; I wasn't ignoring Mark's motion or Ralph's second...I'm just a little uncomfortable using the "C" word when it comes to something like this...I'm sorta/kinda treating the whole thing as an experiment of sorts, an attempt to see what can be done (or not) with the medium.


I'm telling you, this man could write a book entitled 'how to be humble'! Rick, we're all 'experimenting', although I must confess, most here are way ahead of people like you and me. But good grief man, even if it doesn't turn out as great as you would like it to be, we don't see many people trying to do what you are doing with the material you are using. So I'm certain there are many here (most I think) that would be interested in at least watching what you are attempting to do!

What I like best about this forum (and this is a perfect example) is that when people 'experiment' with something and things don't go as expected, everyone jumps in with suggestions, recommendations and best of all, support. And while you continue with the experimentation process, others learn.

I think you are off to a great start and am anxious to see how things go.

Mark

See my homepage at http://home.comcast.net/~prrndiv/
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Harsco
Fireman

USA
1101 Posts

Posted - 02/10/2011 :  1:06:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A quick update on the project: here's a picture of the three taller bents in place, just to give me a perspective on how things will look:



The opposite bents will be less beefier, since they will also be supported by the structure itself. I've hit am "imagineering" snag trying to design the other, lighter bents since my available space doesn't match the article's version. I have to come up with something appropriately designed that will fit the area and have been noodling around with several ideas...hopefully something will be decided soon.

Meanwhile, the new Wiconisco Street bridge keeps me occupied when the CI&S project hits a speed bump. Finding some 3/4 inch thick Styrofoam stashed in the deep recesses under the layout, I started futzing with trying to make some bridge piers in the classic PRR "Don't know what it's called dark stone block"...here are the results so far:

A 3/4 shot of the semi-finished product. Trial and error indicated that the best way to scribe the lines is to use an X-acto knife first and slice the material, followed my a blunter tipped tool....this minimizes any crushing or tearing of the material:





After apply a few judicious dents here and there, I brush painted it with a new Americana acrylic paint color I recently found at A.C. Moore called "Soft Black", which has a noticeable brownish tint to it. Here's the piers in place:



Next up (after putting granite style capstones on the piers) is to scratchbuild some girder sides...yet another experiment in cardboard.
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dlwrailfan1
Crew Chief

USA
574 Posts

Posted - 02/10/2011 :  1:29:12 PM  Show Profile  Visit dlwrailfan1's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Nice modeling of that 'dark PRR stone' bridge piers and abutments. Many of these are in heavy service to this day. In later years, the PRR replaced some top stones with concrete. I am not a structural engineer but assume that the cap stone takes the most stress from the trains going over and the weather extremes.

I like that you are mixing these materials from different eras -- so common all around Harrisburg.

Thanks for posting the progress.

Eric
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mpw
New Hire

11 Posts

Posted - 02/10/2011 :  3:18:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Rick,

I just finished reading all 74 pages of your outstanding layout. Your work is fantastic.
You are very lucky to have a great group of guy's to help out.

I had no idea about the operations of a steel mill until you presented it here. Very interesting. Do you have any suggestions on some reading material on steel mills? I only know of Fretag's book.

I'm looking forward to your progress.

Thanks,
Marty
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dlwrailfan1
Crew Chief

USA
574 Posts

Posted - 02/10/2011 :  8:33:55 PM  Show Profile  Visit dlwrailfan1's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Late this afternoon I passed the PRR Main line in Devon and spied those famous 'dark stone' PRR walls. While this line is now all passenger at one time many freights came through here.

This bridge had its steel bridge span replaced with a reinforced pre-stressed concrete deck (a long time ago). They added some concrete above the capstones at one point.



Nearby the PRR channeled a stream under the fill and used the famous 'dark stone' to prevent erosion. All of this stone work has to be over 100 years old and still going strong.




Your modeled stone is very convincing compared to the prototype. Good work as always.

Keep on futzing,

Eric
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Harsco
Fireman

USA
1101 Posts

Posted - 02/10/2011 :  8:49:45 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Marty...you read ALL 74 pages? And are still cognitively functional? Geez, I usually fall asleep by the bottom of the first page! LOL.

Thanks for the nice comments; judging from the pics of your layout, (to me) the best part is about to start! Keep posting what you're doing; as I learned with this thread, when the motivational times get tough, a quick read-back can really jolt the modeling mojo.

Eric: thanks for the comments and pics: did you measure the block size by any chance? Wait...don't tell me...I don't want to know...LOL. The ones in the pictures seem lighter than I remember...is it just the ambient lighting or are they really more of a dark gray? I seem to remember them being darn close to black (but then again, the ole memory isn't what it used to be).

Another quickie for anyone thinking of using this method. On the second pier, I actually cut in some of the horizontal mortar lines using a fairly thin bladed Zona saw, just to see how it would work. The results were OK, but I went back to the "slice, then scribe" method previously mentioned since it gave a lot more control.





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hunter48820
Fireman

6024 Posts

Posted - 02/10/2011 :  9:07:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Rick, I like the stone work. A great job with styrofoam. I never gave that one a thought. Great idea!!


Best, Andy Keeney

Look out for #1, but don't step in #2!
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MarkF
Engineer

USA
9270 Posts

Posted - 02/10/2011 :  10:01:58 PM  Show Profile  Visit MarkF's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I think you nailed it Rick! I've seen so many of those stone abutments and walls over the years and I don't think any two are the same color. From a dark grey to what appears to be black! Some weathering to maybe highlight some of the texture may add to it. Looking good so far!

Mark

See my homepage at http://home.comcast.net/~prrndiv/
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Vagel Keller
Crew Chief

USA
720 Posts

Posted - 02/11/2011 :  7:49:55 PM  Show Profile  Visit Vagel Keller's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Works for me, Rick! Note to self ... [:-bulb]

Vagel
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Harsco
Fireman

USA
1101 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2011 :  05:48:46 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
About a year ago I came across a package of two sheets of 12" x 30" x 1/8th thick Styrofoam at a local LHS which I think are used by airplane modelers....the stuff closely resembles the infamous "meat tray foam" we're familiar with for carving stonework into. For the life of me I don't remember the name of the product or the manufacturer, but this stuff holds great possibilities for making PRR viaducts or bridge abutments...in fact, having finally figured out a reasonable looking block size (1/4 tall x 1/2 wide), I'm going to try using it as a "facing" for the Commonwealth bridge approach and abutments. So much futzing, so little time.....
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Dutchman
Administrator

USA
23228 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2011 :  07:11:34 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rick, I think that the abutments look convincing.

quote:
Originally posted by Harsco

So much futzing, so little time.....



Now ain't that the truth - even in retirement!

Bruce

Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3
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Harsco
Fireman

USA
1101 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2011 :  09:26:22 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Knowing I was off yesterday, Steam called to bust my chops and ask why there's no update...is it possible to futz under pressure?

STILL indecisive about the CI&S bents, my attention has been focused on the Wiconisco Street bridge thing...another bout of "modeler's ADD"! Taking the path of least resistance, I decided to make it a welded plate girder bridge, figuring it would be something that could be easily handled in cardstock. Here's a run down on the fabrication process:

The first step was to cut out a 7 ft tall piece of illustration/mat board, then using the sponge method, paint it light gray. The third picture shows what happens with only one side painted; the fourth shows it with both sides done:









While not straightening out 100%, it's really pretty close. Lately I tend to used this method in place of airbrushing, which to me can be time and labor consuming, depending on what you need to paint. Next, I drew in panel center lines six feet apart, then applied base plates of 1/8th wide three ply thick Strathmore, topped with a 1/16th wide four ply glued on edge to form a "tee":




Since the back of the panels will be directly attached to the edge of the Foamcore, the inside uprights were shortened to allow for the thickness of the roadway as well as a sidewalk:



The ends were trimmed into an arc, then a flange plate cut and glued to the top edge:





The finished product at the workbench, then placed on the roadway (yes, it still needs a bottom flange):







The uprights will be brush painted later; being glued in place, they shouldn't warp.

For anyone who might be interested in trying cardstock, I'd recommend finding an art supply store, since they are more likely to carry the various thicknesses and textures of Strathmore. As touted years ago in several modeling magazines, this material does indeed cut very clean and remarkably, can be sanded (didn't believe that until I tried.) One thing I also recommend is the use of a contact type cement as opposed to water based white glues, which (in my experience)can produce warping. John R, whose excellent cardstock modeling got me interested in this, uses Walther's Goo, while I've found that "Welder" (from Lowes)works well since it's clear, waterproof, sets relatively quickly, and is aggressive enough to hold things in alignment.

One down, two more sets to go.....

Edited by - Harsco on 02/12/2011 09:40:38 AM
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Dutchman
Administrator

USA
23228 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2011 :  10:06:34 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
They look good, Rick. Thanks for the step-by-step. I will have to get some of that Welder from Lowes. I've just done some modeling with paper myself. It is a medium we shouldn't overlook when scratchbuilding.

Bruce

Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3
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dlwrailfan1
Crew Chief

USA
574 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2011 :  12:08:05 PM  Show Profile  Visit dlwrailfan1's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks for posting the step by step. That really turned out looking good and you could make it the right size to fit.

Looking at the foam core deck, I imagine that simulates poured concrete (less the re-bar which cannot be seen).

Another successful day of futzing.[:-thumbu]

Eric
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