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Tyson Rayles
Moderator

USA
11035 Posts

Posted - 03/08/2012 :  11:32:12 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Bruce!

Mike
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George D
Moderator

USA
11220 Posts

Posted - 03/09/2012 :  06:46:27 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Those trees make a difference, Mike. Very nice.

George
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Tyson Rayles
Moderator

USA
11035 Posts

Posted - 03/09/2012 :  07:08:00 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you George!

Mike
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Randy May
Crew Chief

668 Posts

Posted - 03/09/2012 :  7:53:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mike I sure been admiring your layout,
your modeling detail makes it hard to tell what scale it is in the close up shots.
what is the Weed your using for youe trees?
I'm planning a Tri level N scale layout in my railroad room,
I'm burn't out on the large scale modeling for now,
N scale will get me some trains running around,
for my room is 22' x 11'4",
three levels will be at least 300' of track run,
it will require helixes so it will be challenging,
hope I can do a decent job of it to have some fun of rolling freight trains.
Randy
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Tyson Rayles
Moderator

USA
11035 Posts

Posted - 03/09/2012 :  10:50:32 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Randy and thanks for the kind words! My tree armatures are twigs from mountain laurel and azeleas in my yard and I also used dried flower heads off of weeds like Queen Ann's lace, Goldenrod and Joe Pye weed plus what ever else I see that might work. That is a massive amount of space you have even if it was one level, but three! You will have about 10 scale miles of mainline which is awesome. I hope you will be posting progress pics here when you get started.

Mike
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Randy May
Crew Chief

668 Posts

Posted - 03/10/2012 :  06:44:37 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I was reading thru that track sticky "What's your favorite N Scale track?"
I see your using peco code 55?
someone said it was "Bullit proof" for all rolling stock,
I'm thinking that is what I'll use myself on the upper & middle levels for sure,
how is it for bending?
I'm going to stick with a northwest theme again,"BNSF"-"Northern Transcon" West,
a loose depiction from the Spokane Washington Yard to the Rockie Mtns.
summit in Montana.
Randy
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Tyson Rayles
Moderator

USA
11035 Posts

Posted - 03/10/2012 :  09:42:10 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Randy the Peco code 55 is code 55 on the outside and code 80 on the inside so older rolling stock performs flawlessly on it. I also use Peco electrofrog switches for two reasons, they let short wheelbase locos go thru without stalling and Peco switches are spring loaded so when you throw them manually as I do they STAY thrown. However when ever you use an electrofrog type switch you need to put insulated rail joiners on the "toes" side of the switch. For example when making a passing siding put the insulators on all four toes then run wires to the sections of the track that connect the toes and everything will work perfectly. As far as bending, the track is VERY forgivable. I have used the same track on at least a half dozen layouts over the last 15 years and it is still trouble free. When I lay it I glue it down with full strength Elmer's white glue, that way if I want/need to rip it up at a later date I can just mist it with some warm water, let it set for a few minutes and it comes right up. Clean off the ballast and it will reflex just like when it was new. Some people don't like that it has European tie spacing (farther apart then American RR's) but when it's the only track on the layout nobody has ever noticed. I tried the Atlas code 55 but everything I have bounces on the ties and it breaks and kinks very easy when bending, code 80 is more durable but looks way out of scale. You can look at pictures of my track work and see if the spacing bothers you or not. Sounds like your layout will be a great candidate for some spectactular scenery!

Mike

Edited by - Tyson Rayles on 03/10/2012 09:45:02 AM
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Randy May
Crew Chief

668 Posts

Posted - 03/10/2012 :  09:59:52 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I was checking out your pictures of your track and it looked good to me,
do you weather the ties & rail?
or buy pre weathered stock?
I think the large scale switches I have are wired the same way as Peco electros.
then insulated as you said.
Would you have any knowledge on long passenger coaches and there minimum radius requirments?
I was planning on minimum radius's in the 40" - 47" range.
outside helix radius of 47"s?
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Tyson Rayles
Moderator

USA
11035 Posts

Posted - 03/10/2012 :  11:57:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Randy I spray paint the track and rails with a dark brown primer like you find at the hardware or auto parts store, let it dry then lightly go over the tops of the rail with emery cloth or wet/dry (black colored) sand paper (either one needs to be around 600 grit and previously used). If the paint is totally dry (usually around 20 minutes or so it will come off very easily. I tried wiping the rails with a cleaner/thinner when the paint was still fresh but it usually smeared and made a big mess. However if you use a regular (non-primer) type of paint you will have to try to clean it while it's still wet. After installing it and ballasting I dry brush the ties with some chalks. When you say 40"-47" I think you mean diameter? That would be a huge radius (half the diameter) in N scale. You should be O.K. with a 15" (30" diameter) radius but 18" (36" diameter) radius would look better if you are going to be running 85' stuff.


BTW the reason for using a primer to paint the track is that it drys flat and you won't have shiny rails.

Mike

Edited by - Tyson Rayles on 03/10/2012 12:02:32 PM
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LandNnut
Fireman

USA
1517 Posts

Posted - 03/11/2012 :  3:02:10 PM  Show Profile  Visit LandNnut's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Mike;
How do you find a brown primer? All the ones I have seen are more of a boxcar red color.
L&N nut
Jon

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Randy May
Crew Chief

668 Posts

Posted - 03/11/2012 :  4:17:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jon
I used Rust O leum brown on my large scale rail,( HOME DEPOT )
as Mike said above,
it rubs off the top of the rail pretty easy with a Scotchbrite a bit after you spray it,
15 or 20 minutes,
Randy
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Tyson Rayles
Moderator

USA
11035 Posts

Posted - 03/11/2012 :  4:35:36 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jon as Randy said Rustoleum makes it but it's twice or more the price. My Ace hardware didn't sell a regular brown but the local Family Dollar and Advance Auto did the last time I was there. Around here the Rustoleum is $6, Advance Auto $4 and Family Dollar had a sale 2 for $5. But their inventory changes daily it seems so keep your eyes open and if all else fails there is still the Rustoleum.

Mike
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Tyson Rayles
Moderator

USA
11035 Posts

Posted - 03/19/2012 :  1:28:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Now for the other end of that road. My pulpwood yard is modeled after the real one we had back in the 80's here in Bryson City. It was strickly a small time affair and shipped 2-4 loads a week normally. It consisted of a gravel field surrounded by scrub thickets, weeds and some trees. There was a small shack with no heat and no plumbing (no outhouse either) and a carpet warehouse type (long pole for going down the center of the rolls of carpet instead of the two flat prongs) forklift. That was it. The curved track at the bottom of the pic is the pulpwood track and this is where I'm at:










Mike

Edited by - Tyson Rayles on 03/19/2012 1:34:19 PM
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Dutchman
Administrator

USA
25245 Posts

Posted - 03/19/2012 :  3:10:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wow, those trees sprung up quick, Mike!

Bruce

Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3
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Tyson Rayles
Moderator

USA
11035 Posts

Posted - 03/19/2012 :  3:28:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
And that one in the middle of the gravel area died already!

Mike
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