Railroad Line Forums
Railroad Line Forums
Home | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

 All Forums
 General Forums
 The Classroom
 Building a Jordan Vehicle, Part 2, by Ken Marken
 New Topic  Topic Locked
Author Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  


21584 Posts

Posted - 05/07/2004 :  9:51:50 PM  Show Profile
Moderator's Note: The following tutorial was posted by Ken Marken in The Craftsman's Corner forum (http://www.railroad-line.com/discussion/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6057). The original thread is still open for comments and discussion.

Since I chose the Jordan 1928 Model A for this tutorial, Part 2 will focus on painting the body.

Usually, if possible, I will assemble the body
before I paint it, but since this kit has lots
of windowís which will need to be cut, fitted
and glued in place, Iíll paint it first to
eliminate the frustration of trying to fit
the glass on an assembled body. Also, if you
want to spray a coat of Dulcoat on the freshly
painted body, the windows wonít also get
sprayed which might turn them cloudy. (I prefer
clear, but slightly dirty windows)

Also, if you plan on keeping the finished
vehicle black, you can skip to part 3.
Iíll still brush on a coat of Steam Engine
Black when the body is complete for a dull
appearance, but with a little caution you can
apply this coat after the windows are in. You
can also weather the completed car with washes
and chalk if you prefer.

Letís touch on paint before we get started.
There are tons of different brand paints
on the market for modeling. But they all fit
into two categories: solvent based or water
based. To make this simple, the choice is up to
you. Iíve used both and prefer the solvent
based right now, but I also like some of the
water based stuff. Use whatever you feel
comfortable with. (after reading the post by
Karl O. Iíll try the Ceramcoat again using his
tips because of the variety of colors available
and the price)

Should you prime first? My opinion is yes, especially if you are going to use
acrylic paint for the top coat. For primer, I suggest you use a spray enamel in
either gray or flat black. My preference is Krylon or Rust Oleum. Yours may vary.
Why enamel? Because it offers a superior bond to the plastic over acrylic primer.
(use gray for light colors Ė black or red oxide for dark colors)

Letís begin.

Now, your parts should be dry enough from cleaning to apply the primer coat
and you have not touched them...right?[:-bigeyes]

I always wear a pair of lightweight cotton
gloves before I handle the body parts
after cleaning. If you donít have a pair you
can use a cotton cloth (lint free) or the
tweezers, but not your bare fingers. The oil
from your fingers and the prints youíll leave
behind will influence the adhesion and the
finish of the primer coat.

To make painting easier, I will first assemble the pieces that will make up the hood
and radiator. There should be 5 pieces. Assemble using the instructions with the kit.
I use Testors liquid for this and most all the rest of the kit. If you wish to paint the
grill ďchromeĒ, do not attach at this point, just the hood and sides.

The next step is to attach the body parts to a suitable holder which you will use
throughout the painting process. I use leftover plastic rail material cut about 3 inches
long. File one end smooth, apply a small drop of Aleeneís Tacky glue and apply to the
backside of the part you wish to hold. If you
have some spare foam board, it will make an
ideal holder for the parts while being sprayed
with primer.

You can also use a plastic bottle cap and a blob of rubber cement or anything else
which will hold the part firm. (trust me, you donít want to watch a freshly painted
part fall to the workbench)[:-banghead][:-censored]

When all parts are ready, apply a very light coat of primer to each. Donít try to
cover in one coat or you will not be happy. This will take two to three very light
coats. One heavy coat will cover most molded in details. Let plenty of time pass between
coats, otherwise the first coat will not dry and you end up with a mess. When you are
pleased with the coverage, let dry for at least
24hrs, preferably longer.

The next step is to choose your body color and type of paint you wish to use.
Because this vehicle is so small, I use a brush for the final color. Those of you
with an airbrush might prefer to use that. Some might also choose to use a spray can.
Again, itís your choice.

My preference right now is a red sable brush. They are available from many craft stores.
Donít skimp on the brushes. If you want a smooth paint job, invest in some quality brushes
of different sizes and shapes. Because this kit has mostly flat areas, Iíll use either a 1/8Ē
or 1/4" wide flat brush.

If you are going to use paint in a jar, do not shake to mix. You will only create air bubbles
which will ruin the paint job. Instead, gently mix with a plastic swizzle stick until you
get a uniform color. Iíll then transfer enough paint to a container to cover the body. What I
use is a container from a potpourri candle
which are easy to clean when your finished

The paint should be about the consistency of
milk. Unfortunately, most of the Floquil /
Poly Scale colors are more on the thin side and
the Model Master is about perfect right out of
the bottle. If your paint needs thinning, you
can either use the blue window washer fluid or
distilled water for the acrylics. Mix right in
the container. Itís also a good idea to keep an
extra container of distilled water or thinner
just in case the brush starts to dry out.

When the paint is ready, Iíll dip the brush
almost halfway in. Never completely fill the
brush with paint or it will not flow evenly and
will eventually ruin the brush.

Start with the top of the vehicle and only
brush the paint on in one direction. Never back
and forth. Try to use one stroke to cover the
length of the piece being painted. Just like
the primer coat, do not brush the paint on too
thick. Two or three light coats are preferred.
As before, allow plenty of drying time between
coats or the next coat will ďmeltĒ the last
coat causing you to mutter nasty words because
of the bumps left behind.

One word of caution. Try not to get too much
paint on the glue lines of the parts being
painted. These will be apparent if you look at
the assembly instructions before painting. The
reason for this is youíll have to clean these
areaís before assembly to let the glue get a
good grip. Never glue painted plastic surfaces
together. It will not hold securely.

When your satisfied with your work, let the
parts stand for a couple of days to dry. During
that time you can paint and detail the small
parts if you wish. Since they are small, primer
is usually not required. I do not paint the
fenders/chassis at this point because of the
number of parts which get glued to it. Iíll
save that for part three. If you would paint it
now, the adhesion of the parts would become an

I chose Model Master Bright Blue enamel with a black roof

If you want you can spray a coat of Dullcoat on after the paint is dry. I personally prefer to
skip this step in most instances because I like some shine in the paint, especially on the body.

If you have some scrap plastic laying around, I suggest you spray some up with primer and
practice laying the finish coats on. It will
make you more confident and comfortable in your
painting abilities.

Also, don't expect a flawless paint job unless
you really want to spend some time with these
kits. Most of the larger parts have flaws in
them from the molding process and they will
show in the paint. I just think they add
character, like small dents.

There, the hard part is done.........not![:-bigeyes]

Part 3 will cover final assembly and more painting.
  Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  
 New Topic  Topic Locked
Jump To:
Railroad Line Forums © 2000-2020 Railroad Line Co. Go To Top Of Page
Steam was generated in 0.17 seconds. Snitz Forums 2000