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MikeC
Administrator

USA
21584 Posts

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  10:13:28 AM  Show Profile
I finished coloring the walls last night. I wanted to wait until I was sure everything was dry/cured before going ahead. The final step - because I wanted a faded, weathered white wash look - was to go over the walls lightly with a 20% Warm Gray Prismacolor marker. Now, they look the way I want them to. And even if they didn't, that was it... I wasn't spending any more time on coloring the walls.

I also sprayed the "window" acetate with Dullcote last night. I hadn't done that yet because I was planning to use the MicroGlaze. But as I said yesterday, that didn't work out. [:-banghead]

I decided this morning to make a big departure in the construction sequence: I'm going to stop where I am on the structure and skip way ahead to preparing the diorama base. Even with the photos in the manual, I'm having a hard time seeing how this diorama will physically fit into my benchwork. These are the things I'm trying to factor in:

1. The diorama base is made up of different elevations to include a seawall and shoreline.

2. I need to construct a river bed in the benchwork that will tie into the diorama's shoreline.

3. I can't tell what the elevations of the different structures are in relation to the surrounding terrain and the tracks that will be running behind the buildings.

Since I already have the benchwork up (it's the unfinished peninsula), I may have to modify part of it or move some of the joists to accommodate the diorama and still have everything look "normal" in relation to the trackage that's in place.[:-banghead][:-crazy]

So, I decided that before I go any further with this kit, I should do some serious advance planning. I already have too many "homeless" models sitting on the shelves! [:-smirk]
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MikeC
Administrator

USA
21584 Posts

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  10:13:28 AM  Show Profile
I finished coloring the walls last night. I wanted to wait until I was sure everything was dry/cured before going ahead. The final step - because I wanted a faded, weathered white wash look - was to go over the walls lightly with a 20% Warm Gray Prismacolor marker. Now, they look the way I want them to. And even if they didn't, that was it... I wasn't spending any more time on coloring the walls.

I also sprayed the "window" acetate with Dullcote last night. I hadn't done that yet because I was planning to use the MicroGlaze. But as I said yesterday, that didn't work out. [:-banghead]

I decided this morning to make a big departure in the construction sequence: I'm going to stop where I am on the structure and skip way ahead to preparing the diorama base. Even with the photos in the manual, I'm having a hard time seeing how this diorama will physically fit into my benchwork. These are the things I'm trying to factor in:

1. The diorama base is made up of different elevations to include a seawall and shoreline.

2. I need to construct a river bed in the benchwork that will tie into the diorama's shoreline.

3. I can't tell what the elevations of the different structures are in relation to the surrounding terrain and the tracks that will be running behind the buildings.

Since I already have the benchwork up (it's the unfinished peninsula), I may have to modify part of it or move some of the joists to accommodate the diorama and still have everything look "normal" in relation to the trackage that's in place.[:-banghead][:-crazy]

So, I decided that before I go any further with this kit, I should do some serious advance planning. I already have too many "homeless" models sitting on the shelves! [:-smirk]
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Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

USA
793 Posts

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  10:53:05 AM  Show Profile
Mike,

Now I feel better since I started to do the same thing a few days ago. I also wanted to see how all of Foss' Landing was going to fit into my layout, especially if he adds new structures.

Harry
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Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

USA
793 Posts

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  10:53:05 AM  Show Profile
Mike,

Now I feel better since I started to do the same thing a few days ago. I also wanted to see how all of Foss' Landing was going to fit into my layout, especially if he adds new structures.

Harry
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ANo10
Fireman

USA
2773 Posts

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  12:02:47 PM  Show Profile
I, too. am taking a break. I only have a few days left on this well. Normally at home, I work on the layout between wells. However, the wife has our bags packed for a "drop everything, lets go" trip to St Louis, Mo. when the granddaughter is born. She is due any day.

Jim
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ANo10
Fireman

USA
2773 Posts

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  12:02:47 PM  Show Profile
I, too. am taking a break. I only have a few days left on this well. Normally at home, I work on the layout between wells. However, the wife has our bags packed for a "drop everything, lets go" trip to St Louis, Mo. when the granddaughter is born. She is due any day.

Jim
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Bbags
Administrator

USA
13324 Posts

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  1:59:08 PM  Show Profile
Hi all
Well most of you seem to be taking a break and I should have last night.
I have my first major issue and it happened while doing the Clam & Oyster sign. I did the first 7 steps fine with no problem but when I went to step 8 where it says burnish the lettering to the boards. It reads place the paper backing over the the lettering, well I used the decal paper by mistake and about 70% of the lettering is now stuck to the paper and off the sign.[:-banghead][:-banghead][:-censored]
Time to think outside of the box.
1) Leave the sign as is with extreme ageing.
2) Have 2 workmen on ladders repainting the sign thus the washed out look.
3) Make a new sign with dry transfer letters.

If it were you would you pick any of the above or does anyone have an alternative solution.[:-idea][:-idea]

I hope to do the "Bill of Goods" lettering today and will not make the same mistake twice.[:-graduate]



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.
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Bbags
Administrator

USA
13324 Posts

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  1:59:08 PM  Show Profile
Hi all
Well most of you seem to be taking a break and I should have last night.
I have my first major issue and it happened while doing the Clam & Oyster sign. I did the first 7 steps fine with no problem but when I went to step 8 where it says burnish the lettering to the boards. It reads place the paper backing over the the lettering, well I used the decal paper by mistake and about 70% of the lettering is now stuck to the paper and off the sign.[:-banghead][:-banghead][:-censored]
Time to think outside of the box.
1) Leave the sign as is with extreme ageing.
2) Have 2 workmen on ladders repainting the sign thus the washed out look.
3) Make a new sign with dry transfer letters.

If it were you would you pick any of the above or does anyone have an alternative solution.[:-idea][:-idea]

I hope to do the "Bill of Goods" lettering today and will not make the same mistake twice.[:-graduate]



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.
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Rusty Stumps
Fireman

USA
7989 Posts

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  2:07:36 PM  Show Profile
Actually John, your solution #2 sounds real good and would add an interesting "story" to the diorama. It has my vote! (for all that matters, )

Walt

In the Crossroads of America.
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Rusty Stumps
Fireman

USA
7989 Posts

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  2:07:36 PM  Show Profile
Actually John, your solution #2 sounds real good and would add an interesting "story" to the diorama. It has my vote! (for all that matters, )

Walt

In the Crossroads of America.
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Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

USA
793 Posts

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  2:32:32 PM  Show Profile
I also think #2 would be interesting and a great conversation topic.

Harry
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Hangem Harry
Crew Chief

USA
793 Posts

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  2:32:32 PM  Show Profile
I also think #2 would be interesting and a great conversation topic.

Harry
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MikeC
Administrator

USA
21584 Posts

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  4:33:39 PM  Show Profile
John, one of the beauties of buying Sierra West kits is that Brett has a guaranteed replacement policy for parts that are missing or damaged during construction.

Look in the bottom of your box. There should be a postcard for parts replacement that you can mail to him.

If you decide to go the replacement route, you might give Brett a call and let him know you're mailing the card. It's possible he'd stick the replacement in the mail right away.

That's the route I'd go.

BTW, everyone: I'm not taking a break from construction. I'm just rearranging the sequence a bit. I want to get the diorama base prepared before going ahead with putting the buildings together.
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MikeC
Administrator

USA
21584 Posts

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  4:33:39 PM  Show Profile
John, one of the beauties of buying Sierra West kits is that Brett has a guaranteed replacement policy for parts that are missing or damaged during construction.

Look in the bottom of your box. There should be a postcard for parts replacement that you can mail to him.

If you decide to go the replacement route, you might give Brett a call and let him know you're mailing the card. It's possible he'd stick the replacement in the mail right away.

That's the route I'd go.

BTW, everyone: I'm not taking a break from construction. I'm just rearranging the sequence a bit. I want to get the diorama base prepared before going ahead with putting the buildings together.
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Bbags
Administrator

USA
13324 Posts

Posted - 02/07/2003 :  4:58:57 PM  Show Profile
Hi
Thanks all for your input.[:-bouncy][:-bouncy]
Mike I saw the green card but figured it was only for missing parts. I will give Brett a call.
I think I will still keep the workers there but this time they will be putting up a new sign.[:-thumbu]
Thanks again group.


John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.
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