| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| HWCRR |
Posted - 07/11/2012 : 11:19:42 AM
I have always been cheap. Well, frugal anyhow. I have looked for a long time an easy and inexpensive way to get the cracked, chipped and bubbling paint found on old, un-maintained structures.
I have used up a lot of time trying sooooo many experiments. The one that I finally settled on, is inexpensive, and not really messy.
I will lay on the wood grain with a fine tooth razor saw, or a wire brush. Lightly sand any Irish pennants that might have that unscale appearance.
Next, I will stain the wood with an india ink and alcohol mix.
When that has dried, I will paint white glue onto the wood. ONE SWIPE! If you do not get all the wood covered, don't worry about it. It actually adds to the effect.
Set aside to dry for between 10 to 15 minutes. It should be slightly tacky when you do the next step.
Pick the water base paint you wish to use as your color and in ONE SWIPE, cover the wood strip.
Refrain, restrain, lock yourself in a cell. Do not brush back over it. This will actually ruin the effect you are wanting.
Then set aside and let it work.
For this, I used white glue and floquil mud, water base paint, and two brushes.
Easy and inexpensive. No fuss, no muss. Water clean up and great results.
If anyone else has ever made this post, using this technique, my apologies. No toe stepping on intended. I have not been here long.
Dave HWCRR |
| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| MikeM |
Posted - 09/19/2012 : 4:36:26 PM
If I had a tree trunk that looked as good as yours does I'd be a happy guy too! [:-bigeyes] |
| HWCRR |
Posted - 09/19/2012 : 12:40:34 AM
Seems I double posted some items. Ah well, if ignorance is bliss, then I am a pretty happy guy!
Dave (HWCRR) |
| HWCRR |
Posted - 09/18/2012 : 1:24:50 PM
Well, my last post was apologetic, about how I thought I had lost the files for this thread. A friend, who knows more about computers than I do, found the files I thought I had completely obliterated.
So onward and upward with this.
In these pics the gutter, is just set in place to check for fit.
Below, is the method I decided upon. It is the one suggested by moderator George.
I sharpened the inside of a piece of brass tubing that is the correct inside diameter of the gutters. Then punched out half-round pieces of aluminum, then ACC'd them in place.
As I had already made the gutters of aluminum, I am going to finish these the same.
The next set I make, will be made of copper. I will then use products I can purchase at Micheals,(can't think of the product name right now), to weather them.
Here is the gutter with two of the brackets that will support it. Then short section at the far end is still missing. This will be where the downspouts are fitted.
Here, you see the end cap on one end.
I think it turned out pretty good.
To place the brackets on the gutters, I used the back of my mitre box, taping the gutter to the outside edge. Then I placed each bracket in its proper spot with ACC. Once set up, I bend the brackets to the correct angle and slide it all up under the roofing material.
After all this is accomplished, I painted the gutters and weathered them with Bragdon powders.
Can't seem to find that pic.
The downspouts, I made from copper wire that I had on hand. I simply cut a piece of wire then put some heat shrink on it to bring it out to a more scale looking appearance. Put the proper bends in place, then ACC'd them to the station. When the roof is removed, the downspouts remain in place. When the roof is replaced, the downspouts line up perfectly with the gutters and in the correct location.
Okay, not good pics to demonstrate the finished downspouts. So, I will take another and post it up.
What started out as a way to make old chipped, cracked, bubbling paint, turned out to be a station remodel, gutter and downspout toot. Ah the fickle finger of just going with it, is such a mysterious thing.
If I have left anything out, please feel free to ask. As I have said before, I do a better job of doing, than I do with telling how.
Dave (HWCRR)
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| HWCRR |
Posted - 09/18/2012 : 12:18:58 PM
Well, my last posting was an apology, for losing the file on this build. Well, a very good friend of mine came over the other day, who happens to know a little more about computers than I do, and found the files I thought I had irretrevably lost. So, here goes.
Here is one gutter, without end caps yet, being checked for length.
I used the technique suggested by George. I sharpened a piece of copper tubing that is the correct inside diameter as the inside of the gutters. I sharpened the inside of the brass tube to make it a punch. Then punching out half rounds of aluminum, made the end caps for the gutters.
I used ACC to place them.
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| HWCRR |
Posted - 09/12/2012 : 09:26:56 AM
quote:
Originally posted by closetguy
Dave
Fantastic gutters. Make them out of copper or brass instead and than you can patina them green like the real thing. You can use copper or brass tube for the down spouts. Making endcaps from brass or copper will allow you solder them like the real thing.
Mike M
What I used for the downspouts, was copper wire with heat shrink tubing around it. I will probably end up showing only the finished pics of the station. The downspouts and gutters will show in those pics.
Dave HWCRR |
| HWCRR |
Posted - 09/12/2012 : 09:23:52 AM
quote:
Originally posted by George D
Dave thanks for the info on your cracking paint technique. I also like the way you're making rain gutters. How about using the tube that you are cutting the gutter brackets from as a paper punch and punching the end pieces for the gutters out of aluminum roofing. I've used brass tubing as a punch to cut paper. I sharpen the end by running a file around the inside of the edge and it cuts nicely. I would assume aluminum would work too, but might need frequent sharpening.
Thank you for the suggestion. This is exactly what I did. It cut the aluminum ends very nicely and then I glued them in.
Dave HWCRR
George
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| HWCRR |
Posted - 09/12/2012 : 09:21:28 AM
Bad news here. I am trying to recover the files I lost with an accidental keystroke. They were the files showing the continuing rebuild of the William Creek Station. I do have pics of the finished project, so, I may end up just posting these. So sorry.
Dave (HWCRR) |
| closetguy |
Posted - 07/30/2012 : 10:05:32 PM
Dave
Fantastic gutters. Make them out of copper or brass instead and than you can patina them green like the real thing. You can use copper or brass tube for the down spouts. Making endcaps from brass or copper will allow you solder them like the real thing.
Mike M |
| George D |
Posted - 07/30/2012 : 9:01:40 PM
Dave thanks for the info on your cracking paint technique. I also like the way you're making rain gutters. How about using the tube that you are cutting the gutter brackets from as a paper punch and punching the end pieces for the gutters out of aluminum roofing. I've used brass tubing as a punch to cut paper. I sharpen the end by running a file around the inside of the edge and it cuts nicely. I would assume aluminum would work too, but might need frequent sharpening.
George |
| masonamerican |
Posted - 07/30/2012 : 5:47:44 PM
quote:
Originally posted by HWCRR
This is the back wall of the William Creek R.R. Station, using this technique.
The camera is only 4" from the wall surface and set on macro. So, it is greatly exaggerated.
As an extra note. I use floor wax to mount my window glazing. Gives it the 'old' glass look. When finished, as the station has very large windows and sits on the front of my module, it will have interior and exterior lighting with full interior.
I will do a thread on its progress.
Dave (HWCRR)
Fantastic peeling paint technique! How well does the paint adhere over the white glue? Must one spray on some kind of sealant or matt varnish or is it ok without it?
Could you also please explain how you use the floor wax to mount the windows?
Thanks,
Håkan |
| jatravia |
Posted - 07/20/2012 : 11:36:42 AM
Assuming you are somehow weathering the gutters you could cut out a couple half circles of the same aluminum and glue them in place?
That is a nice looking building.
Joe <>< |
| HWCRR |
Posted - 07/19/2012 : 2:14:01 PM
The exterior of the building itself is almost done. Now, I must start adding the small details. Chimmney, interior lighting, exterior lighting, gutters and downspouts and the REA sign back on the one end, and the maintenance crew.
Today, I have been working on the gutters for the station. I am using roofing aluminum for the gutter and aluminum tubing cut into small slices for the brackets. I use the same tubing for the brackets as I use to form the gutters. That way, everything fits together very smoothly.
Once I cut the slice from the tubing, I then cut it in half across the circumferance.
The brackets are then attached, using CA.
For the guttering itself, I cut material from from a piece of aluminum roofing. Only enough to make a half round.
In the case of the station, I will be making 12 brackets and rolling 4 gutters.
I haven't figured out yet, what to use for the end caps. But, it will come to me.
Any suggestions?
That's all I have time for today. Catch you later with more updates on the remodel.
Dave (HWCRR) |
| djdutch |
Posted - 07/18/2012 : 6:51:27 PM
well maybe your not the first but you are certainly the firs how learn this trick to me I gonna try, so thank you :) thats what the forum is about I think to learn from each other
DJ |
| HWCRR |
Posted - 07/18/2012 : 5:49:16 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Rick
Flipping through youtube today I ran across this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDHb2JstQeg&feature=fvwrel
Well, I guess I am not the first. But, I did learn of this by total mistake. And here I thought I had actually come up with something.
He is force drying and going back over his strokes. When I tried to overstroke, it ruined the effect. Might have something to do with the smaller scale of work. Didn't think of force drying.
Dave (HWCRR)
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| Rick |
Posted - 07/18/2012 : 3:52:52 PM
Flipping through youtube today I ran across this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDHb2JstQeg&feature=fvwrel |
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