| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Red |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 07:06:17 AM
I think I understand the whys of sealing (prevent warpage, get rid of fuzzies) however I'm not sure what to use as a sealer.
HO scale model using basswood strips. I plan on leaving the wood unpainted but to give it a slightly dirty look. The building is part of mining operation and is to be a fairly new building but already showing the dirt & grime that was part of old time mining.
Thanks,
Steve |
| 7 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Red |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 10:21:41 PM
Thanks to all for your suggestions - washes, stains, chalk, sealers. Experimenting with various techniques and products will help me discover what works best for me.
I'm sure I'll have lots or questions as I go along and hopefully I will be able to share some of my knowledge as I become more skillful at the construction process and making it look realistic. I am truly amazed at the craftsmanship I've seen on this site and others.
Steve
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| AVRR-PA |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 3:04:28 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Red
Don, can I paint over shellac?
Steve
Hi, Steve --
Absolutely. Shellac is wonderful stuff. Those lac beetles (really - not kidding) produce a marvelous product. It will adhere to just about anything and just about any finish will, in turn, adhere to it. It's the perfect stain controller and barrier coat as well as being a great finish in its own right.
Kilz, which is used to seal in smoke odor in fire damaged buildings and to keep knots from bleeding through, is pigmented shellac. (Or used to be - the newer version uses something else as a base and I don't think it works very well.)
I've sprayed Kilz on styrene as a base coat and then made it look like wood - I think I learned that one from an article in MR some years ago.
Go beetles!
Edit: Kris, I forgot to mention that your work with chalk pastels looks great!
Don |
| desertdrover |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 2:49:16 PM
I use Minwax Sanding Sealer. It is a clear sealer made for bare wood. It seals wood grain, it is easy to sand and dries quick. Any fuzz can be rubbed off like Chuck said by fine steel wool. It will take chalks an weathering well. |
| hon3_rr |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 1:27:33 PM
Steve, if you are after a dry dusty look may I suggest the use of soft pastel chalks. I have done multiple structures using this method, and to my eye it most closely resembles what I see on the actual remaining structures here in Colorado.
The soft pastels in a lot of the applications are applied directly to the grained basswood and then set with an alcohol wash. This does not fully seal the wood but for sure colors the wood with a dusty effect and it can stand up to some pretty tough handling.
If you are interested in possibly using the technique, you may want to look at the following threads where the technique and coloring has been discussed/detailed at length:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=31999&whichpage=10
This (above link) current thread has lots of various stain washes and chalking tests and formula's throughout the entire thread so far, so you may want to look at all of the pages to get a feel for possible techniques and colors using both inks/washes as well as the chalks/soft pastels.
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=26900&whichpage=18
The above link is for the tool shed structure pictured.
http://sierrawestscalemodels.com/video/video.shtml
The above link provides a video of the soft pastel technique from the Sierra West Scale Models website. Brett's kits are often colored using this technique and it is where I learned the technique.
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35900
The above thread shows what can be accomplished with the use of both washes and soft pastels (in pencil form) together and with advanced wood graining techniques. Review the red colored structure in this thread.
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| Red |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 12:29:20 PM
Chuck - we're neighbours, me being from Oakville.
I'll try staining a few of the strips with a water based wssh to see what happens. The wood is from Northeastern Scale Lumber and seems pretty good. I've cut the strips into 1/16 x 1/8 wide x about 4" long and then trimmed to a clapboard shape. A fair amount of work but good as part of the learning process. One of the threads mentioned about staining, using waxed paper top & bottom and haeavy book to keep things flat which I will use.
As far as having fun & experiment... my attitude on this build is that I can either have something to show with pride or show for comic relief, either way is fine with me.
Don, can I paint over shellac?
Steve |
| northern6400 |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 10:39:54 AM
Steve I agree with Don. Pulling the stripwood through fine steel wool will get rid of the fuzzies. Quality strip wood doesn't have fuzzies. The dye stains need to be done on bare wood to get that grey look. When staining sheets stain both sides to reduce warpage and weigh it until it is dry. Have fun and experiment. |
| AVRR-PA |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 07:30:18 AM
Thinned shellac is my favorite sealer, generally.
However - if you're planning on leaving the wood unpainted and plan to use dye stains (like alcohol & India ink) that might not be a good idea because it might keep the stains from being absorbed.
Experimenting on scrap is always a safe strategy.
Don |
